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April 10, 2013 – 7:00 am | 4 Comments

It seems cliché to speak of reawakening after a long Winter, but with the amount of rain we got this year, putting England to shame, even a slight glimpse of Spring is extremely welcome. Easter came early this year and for a few hours on Sunday morning here in Maremma, the skies cleared, the sun …

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Articles in Italy

Being a woman in Italy… in the Renaissance

May 8, 2013 – 7:00 am | 11 Comments

Anytime any of my friends expresses a preference for having lived in the Middle Ages or the Renaissance, I like to remind them that had they done so, their chances of dying in childbirth would be much higher than their likelihood of receiving any education. A 10 percent chance of dying in childbirth awaited each …

Puglia’s prettiest: Polignano a Mare

April 22, 2013 – 8:07 am | 3 Comments

Water so clear you feel thirst when you look at it, lapping up against a rocky beach, surrounded by cliffs off which tanned, local kids jump. This beach scene is the first thing that strikes the visitor to Polignano a Mare, the postcard-view of the place that one can see off a bridge from the …

How to get to Cinque Terre from Florence

April 19, 2013 – 9:13 pm |

The Cinque Terre is one of the most desired destinations for American visitors to north-central Italy. I often hear of students and tourists who plan a day-trip to the Cinque Terre from Florence, which is feasible, although as with all the areas of Italy, I believe it takes a longer stay to get a good …

Digital invasions to promote Italian culture

April 14, 2013 – 2:25 pm | One Comment

Italian culture is in a bad way, and the state museums have been hit the worst. Never mind things like Pompeii falling apart (that’s old news), or sections of museums being closed because they can’t afford guards to open them. News last week revealed that ticket sales in all the state museums in Italy combined …

Bracelets to buy back Benozzo

April 9, 2013 – 4:21 pm | 2 Comments

Umbria is about wine, textiles and art – some of the best qualities of Italian production. The town of Montefalco is associated almost exclusively with wine, as its name is also given to a DOC white made with grechetto and trebbiano grapes. They also make Sagrantino, an important red wine, and Arnaldo Caprai is one …

Food and art is sMART

March 26, 2013 – 10:22 pm | 4 Comments

Pretty, pop, delicious, social. A new exhibit at the MART in Rovereto seems to show that the key to getting people into the museum is to talk about food. Or to talk about food as art, or food in art. How to draw crowds is a dilemma that all museums face now, more than ever, …

Hotel Armentarola: a sunny place full of history

March 19, 2013 – 10:26 pm | 8 Comments

Sometimes you don’t have to visit museums to experience culture. A stay at Hotel Armentarola in the Alto Adige is a relaxing opportunity to learn about Ladinian culture while eating, relaxing in the sun and doing invigorating sports.
This luxury boutique hotel in the Dolomites has 90% return customers… and I set out to find out …

Bari Ballerina Project highlights city’s run-down state

March 7, 2013 – 9:48 am | 6 Comments

Elisabetta de Robertis and Olga Diasparro are two Bari-based photographers who are taking urban degeneration into their own hands… or lenses. Inspired by the international ‘Ballerina Project,’ their actions highlight non-areas of the southern Italian port city of Bari, in Puglia.

Handmade with a little digital help… Italy’s new artisans

February 6, 2013 – 6:05 am | 6 Comments

They’re called ‘Makers‘ in the States and Artigiani Digitali in Italy, and they’re slated to be the next wave of artisans. With this month’s Italy Roundtable topic being ‘handmade,’ I get to talk about my new project as the blog editor for MakeTank, a blog and marketplace that intends to become the Etsy for Italian, …

Castiglione della Pescaia and the road to contemporary art

January 29, 2013 – 9:02 am | One Comment

Far from the bright lights of Florence and Siena, it’s hard for a small town art gallery to get any notice in Tuscany.  After all, the region’s nature has been the muse for artists since the age when paint was little more than crushed earth pasted to a stone wall canvas, but there are not …

New Years’ Lunch in Puglia

January 1, 2013 – 8:53 pm | 10 Comments

After getting through most of the holidays without eating too much, we felt fit enough to accept the invitation to lunch at the house of one of the best cooks I know: Anna, Tommaso’s aunt, who is only rivaled by her brother Enzo. Last year I wrote about my father in law’s Christmas menu, and …

Matera’s Presepe Vivente (live nativity)

December 29, 2012 – 11:29 pm | 4 Comments

In the Sassi di Matera, each year, 1000 local “actors” help us imagine what Bethlehem might have looked like at the time of the birth of Christ. The Presepe Vivente, or live nativity scene, is one unique experience that lasts only 4 evenings per year, and we were very fortunate to attend.

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