Sardinia: Medieval Mines of Montevecchio and Ingurtosu

OK, I admit that I’ve never been to Sardinia. We considered it last summer, but ended up closer to home, in Elba. So when Paolo from Charming Sardinia contacted me and offered a guest post, I was happy to accept… also because I saw the beautiful properties he offers, and with the cold and grey rainy days we’ve been having, I am already dreaming of my next beach holiday, which just might be in Sardinia!

Here’s what our Sardinia expert recommends as a real “off the beaten track” experience in Sardinia’s mining areas.

Most people who go on a holiday want to see as much from the region where they stay as possible. And although this is technically possible while staying in a large multi-storey chain hotel, nothing beats staying in old guest houses or hotels that have a history or something to say for themselves. This article highlights a desolate area on the west side of Sardinia where it still is possible to enjoy history, peace and quiet, and unspoiled nature.

Montevecchio

Discovered by the Romans hundreds of years ago, Montevecchio is a very large mining facility, located in Province of Medio Campidano. The mines of Montevecchio were among the most productive in Europe during the peak days in the 19th century. In the mid 1960s, the demand for zinc (what the mines where mainly used for during that time) decreased, leading to less occupance in the mines. In 1991, the mines of Montevecchio (also known as “Gennas”) closed their doors.

In 1865, over 1100 people worked in the mines, which made it necessary to build hundreds of houses for the workers and their families. The mines and the workers’ village are both part of ‘Parco Geominerario, Storico e Ambientale della Sardegna’, and recognized by UNESCO. This protection made it possible to restore and renovate the old mines, and resulted in the mines opening its doors for the public a few years ago.

For only 6 Euro p.p., you can visit the old village (see their Italian website for more information) to experience life in and around the mines 150 years ago. A tour will take you along the abandoned buildings, including hospitals, a school, a recreation area and a church, which will tell you the stories of hard working people and their families.

Ingurtosu

A few kilometers away from Montevecchio are the mines of Ingurtosu, which got their name from bearded vultures (gurturgiu in Sardinian dialect), who lived in the area. Located in the sandy dunes, these mines were used to find zinc, silver and lead. People started mining in Ingurtosu in 1855, but only about 50 years later, the mine village housed over 5,000 people. The direction office was built in 1870 in the neo-medieval style as a proposed connection to the nearby (and much older) mines of Montevecchio. This arched building is now the -mostly ruined- face of the mines, which closed in 1968.

Just like all other mines in the region, the mines of Ingurtosu are part of ‘Parco Geominerario, Storico e Ambientale della Sardegna’, and UNESCO has declared this region of industrial mines as archaeological monuments and the whole territory “World Heritage”. Where possible, the hospital, church, cemetary and most of the houses of the employees have been restored. A block of houses has even been renovated and turned into a small hotel - Hotel le Dune. [editor's note: this place looks like an amazing, middle-of-nowhere, total relax away from civilization kind of hotel, with a private beach and what appears to be no human for miles around!]

Because Ingurtosu is in a more worse shape than Montevecchio (mainly because it already closed in 1968), this village breathes ‘abandoned mine’ even more than it’s nearby sister. Although it’s not possible to take a tour in Ingurtosu, the mines are still definitely worth a visit. The sound of the nearby sea, the sand of the dunes, and the eery presence of the last bearded vulture make visiting Ingurtosu a unique experience.

As you can see, when you look a little bit further than most standard holiday brochures, it’s possible to have an original, authentic vacation experience anywhere in Italy.

This article was written by Paolo, who works for Charming Sardinia, a Sardinian travel agency. He not only helps his clients to book hotels in Sardinia, but also loves to show them his favorite places on the island.