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The Piero della Francesca Pilgimage
I'm listing the Piero Pilgrimage under Tuscany, but really
it just starts there - in the end you cross the entire country, spend
some time in the Marches and finish on the East coast in Rimini! This
itinerary does not include the museums in Milan and Perugia, nor the Uffizi
in Florence, all three of which house important works by Piero. Rather,
the trip follows Piero's path through works still found in-situ, or in
their city of production in the case of Urbino.
First let's start with a map to see the path of travel...

Leaving Florence (or anywhere nearby), take the A1 highway
to Arezzo. From Arezzo onwards take small roads - first follow signs for
Borgo San Sepolcro. About half an hour outside of Arezzo, stop at Monterchi,
then continue to Borgo. From Borgo, cross the mountains on a treacherous
pass to Urbino (great views!). To top it off, follow the road to Pesaro,
and take a few kilometres of autostrada for just one more fresco (and
a cool church by Alberti) in Rimini. The way home (3.5 hours) is all autostrada.
There are plenty of other wonderful things to see in the area that are
not covered in this trip dedicated to Piero.
A little bit about Piero della Francesca (circa 1412/20?-1492)
is also de riguer here. Born in the town of Borgo San Sepolcro, Piero
trained in Florence, probably in the workshop of Domenico Veneziano. Highly
influenced by Masaccio, he can be classified as one of the foundational
artists of the Renaissance. He was a skilled mathematician and the author
of a treatise on scientific perspective.
Arezzo: Church of San Francesco.
Click
here for an animated diagram of the chapel and its scenes (labels
in italian) from the official
site. |
Fresco cycle of the Legend of the True Cross
(circa 1460).
The high chapel of this church is decorated with a large fresco
cycle commemorating the True Cross, and incorporating a little bit
of local propoganda along the way. The story is narrated in ten
fields that recount elements of the legend. The theme of the cross
is also ingeniously incorporated visually into some of the scenes,
for example the Annunciation (left altar wall) has a cross-shape
built into the architecture, as does the tent shape to the right
of this same wall.
This work makes a nice starting point for understanding Piero's
unique contribution to Renaissance painting. It is not the earliest
work on the Piero trail, nor the latest, but it shows his mature
style towards 1460. This style is characterized by obsession with
perspective to the point of sacrificing movement, monumentality
of form, repetition of elements, alternation and variation of colours
and figures.
Tickets must be purchased in advance by phoning 0575 352.727 or
through this
website (which however does not always work).
Photos are not permitted inside the church, and after-restoration
photos are not available online. The book by Bertelli listed at
the bottom of this page is beautifully illustrated with the new
photos. |
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Arezzo: Duomo
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Fresco of Saint Mary Magdalen. Located on a wall at
the left side of the apse.
This fresco was probably executed while Piero was working on the
nearby cycle mentioned above. Elements such as the figure's clothing
and facial type recall those seen in the Legend of the True Cross
frescoes, such as the flipped over cape. The facial shape however
is less rigorously oval and may point to a slightly later dating.
The form and colour are typically Piero, monumental and clear. |
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Monterchi

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Madonna del Parto (image from the Web Gallery of Art)
This deceptively simple fresco hides ingenious compositional tricks
and levels of deep meaning. When this small, remote town moved the
fresco (already detached over a century ago) to the schoolhouse
from its previous location in a cemetary chapel outside of town,
local women protested. The work has had a talismanic function for
many centuries, due to its representation of the pregnant Virgin
Mary. Back in the mid fifteenth-century, when it was painted by
Piero (but we're not sure where or when, exactly), women had a lot
to pray for, since pregnancy and childbirth were very dangerous
affairs.
Piero's pregnant Madonna is approachable and human. She looks just
about as uncomfortable as any woman would be about eight months
along. She stands with her weight in a heavy contrapposto pose,
leaning on one foot and holding her back. On the other hand, she
is majestic and monumental. Her perfect oval face and eyes open
just a slit betray a reassuring calmness. Moving outwards now, she
stands in a tent whose rich pomegranite-patterned damask (heavily
damaged) sides are being pulled back by two carbon-copy angels.
The angels are the same figure, reversed, which gives the composition
balance. Nonetheless, Piero introduces variety (another prized element
in renaissance composition) by alternating the colours of their
robes, wings and boots.
Within this monumental fresco, of which just this detached fragment
remains, are the Christian themes of birth and resurrection. Mary
is shown here as the container of, or tabarnacle of, Christ. The
composition and subject matter hence refer to the miracle of transubstantiation,
or the host, the central mystery of Christianity. |
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Borgo San Sepolcro, Museo Civico

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Borgo san Sepolcro (the town of the holy sepulchre) is Piero's
birth place, and he worked here too. The town hall houses a museum,
but is also the original locaton of Piero's fresco of the Resurrection.
Resurrection (image from the Web Gallery of Art)
Although a religious subject, the topic is appropriate to a town
named after the holy sepulchre. Piero here plays with perspective,
showing us a scene in perfect perspective, with Christ who is entirely
frontal and not shown within that perspectival scheme. This is a
trick he got from Masaccio's Trinity (SMN, Florence).
Madonna della Misericordia (image from the Web Gallery
of Art)
This altarpiece (shown in a reconstructed state and missing its
original frame) was made for a local confraternity, whose members
are shown protected by the tent-shape of the Madonna's robe. This
is a very early work by Piero, which shows in the somewhat inept
rendering of some of the figures. The use of a gold background was
probably something Piero wouldn't have liked, but perhaps was required
by the patron. It didn't allow him to work in perspective and to
create realistic spaces. |
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Urbino, Galleria Nazionale (in Palazzo
Ducale)

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Flagellation (image from the Web Gallery of Art)
Madonna di Senigallia (not pictured). |
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Palazzo Ducale, Urbino - more



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This lovely Renaissance palace is entirely due to one man, the
patron Federico da Montelfeltro, a powerful condottiere (mercenary
soldier) and eventually Duke of Urbino. Besides being a good warrior,
Federico was very proud of his humanist education. He learned Latin,
astronomy, music, mathematics and all that good stuff. With the
profits of warfare, Federico da Montefeltro built up a large court
in Urbino to rival all others in Italy. From 1468 onwards, he invested
more money in art and architecture than any other italian ruler.
The palace was begun in the 1450’s, and Federico had work
done on it for the next 30 years. The architects involved were Maso
di Bartolomeo, Luciano Laurana, and finally the Sienese Francesco
di Giorgio.
The courtyard (pictured here) is a light and airy renaissance space,
in brick and articulated in white local marble. The effect is graceful
and sophisticated. All around this courtyard is a long inscription
in latin that is practically a biography of the patron! In short
form, it says something like: “Federico Duke of Urbino, Count
of Montefeltro and Casteldurante, Gonfaloniere of the holy roman
church and head of the italian confederation, started from scratch
this building for his own glory and those of his ancestors. He,
who has fought many wars, six times lead armies, eight times won
against the enemy, winner of all wards, has increased his dominion.
His justice, clemency, liberality, morality equal and ornament,
during peace, his victories.”
The palace is entirely visitable (no reservation required) and
houses the National Gallery of the Marches.
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Rimini, Tempio Malatestiano, Sigismondo
Malatesta and his saint

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(image from ABCGallery.com)
The detached fresco of the patron, Sigismondo Malatesta, in adoration
of his patron saint, was originally made for the entrance wall of
the church's sacristy. (It has now been moved into the last chapel
on the right for easy access.) It is dated 1451, so is a relatively
early work by Piero. The simple composition in accurate perspective
and the lack of motion are characteristic. The architecture, with
the white pilasters in the background, are clearly Albertian and
a reference to the church in which the fresco is located.
Bibliography:
Piero della francesca a rimini: l’affresco nel tempio Malatestiano
(1984)
JV Field: Piero della Francesca: A Mathematician’s art (2004),
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Rimini, Alberti's Tempio Malatestiano



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In the late 1440's, the Lord of Rimini, Sigismondo Malatesta,
started rennovating this Gothic church in Rimini. He had a builder
from Verona, Matteo de'Pasti, get started on the inside, just rennovating
one chapel. The project grew exponentially, and eventually he had
Alberti on the project. In 1450 Alberti designed the marble encasing
for the earlier structure, which is still visible on the side of
the building and at the top of the unfinished facade. This expansive
restoration project, which was never finished, involved putting
a Renaissance marble "icing" on all internal and external
features. On the outside, Alberti's job was to regularize the Gothic
structure, whose proportions he found disturbing. The front and
sides show his obsession with mathematics and proportion, and his
strong reliance on Classical precedents.
The chapels inside are decorated in low-relief sculptures by Agostino
di Duccio and his workshop.
A detached fresco by Piero della Francesca (you were probably wondering
how he fit in!) has been put on display in one of the chapels in
the right aisle. It was originally located above the entrance to
the sacristy. The fresco shows the patron, Sigismondo Malatesta,
adoring Saint Sigismund.
Bibliography:
Tavernor: On alberti and the art of buliding (1998)
Wittkower 1949: Architectural principles in the age of humanism.
Stanko Kokole, Agostino di Duccio in the Tempio Malatestiano (PhD
Dissertation, Johns Hopkins University, 1997)
Pasini, Pier Giorgio (ed.): Il tempio malatestiano: Splendore cortese
e classicismo umanistico (Skira, 2000)
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Rimini, Arch of Augustus

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Built about 27bc and now incorporated into the city's walls, the
Arch of Augustus marks the end of the via Flaminia, which technically
should lead to Rome. Alberti was greatly inspired by this authentic
Roman structure when he built his "temple". You can see
this in the similar use of shapes and proportions. |
Further reading for your trip:
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The Arezzo frescoes restored |
The perfect companion for your trip |
An accessible monograph |
An interesting new study on Piero as mathematician |
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