Artimino (Villa Medicea La Ferdinanda)

This Medici villa, famous for its "hundred chimneys" that distinguish it on the horizon, is now used for weddings and ceremonies, so you can only visit the outside. In the basement is the archaeological museum detailed below.

The villa dates to about 1600, the architect is Buontalenti. From the back garden (see photo with orange flowers), there is a nice view of the nearby town of Artimino.

The official website is in italian and has excellent information.

The Archaeological Museum of Artimino houses a decent collection of Etruscan archaeological finds from the area (an example is pictured here).

Open most mornings with some variation. Check their website.

Pieve di San Leonardo

Just a stone's throw from Artimino is the 10th century church of San Leonardo (the dedication to him dates to the 14th century, from hence its present name). The Romanesque structure, in brown stone, is just charming. We arrived at noon with the bells tolling loudly, and admired the view from this hilltop.

Listen/watch the video of the bells and the belltower

Pieve di San Leonardo, Località Artimino
via della Chiesa, 19/a
tel. 055/8718068
Open: Sunday and holidays, 10,30-12,00 and 17,00-18,00. Other days upon appointment.

Poggio a Caiano

The Medici villa of Poggio a Caiano

The villa in the G. Utens painting of 1599.

This villa was commissioned by Lorenzo dei Medici ("The Magnificent") from the architect Giuliano Sangallo. Its construction began in 1485 and the building was finished in the 1520's or so. It was a Medici favourite on account of the "good air" that is to be had there.

Both the interior and exterior of the building can be visited. As you approach the villa from the road, you get a great view through the gate (first photo). The entrance is off to the left, but make sure you return to the central path to observe the shape of the buliding, characterized by the double stairway ( added later) and the "temple front" up top with a maiolica frieze. The structure of the building is Renaissance, and is one of the first applications of Classical/ Vitruvian architectural theory to a country villa.

On the inside, the ground floor houses some later decoration including a billiard room. Of much more interest is the upstairs, in the large room dedicated to Pope Leo X. The fresco cycle was completed in two phases. First, Andrea del Sarto, Pontormo and Franciabigio worked here between 1519 and 1521. Alessandro Allori finished up the room starting in 1578 until 1582. In these history paintings in the Mannerist style, Medici family members are presented in Roman histories.

A good historic guide in English is provided on their website.

Opening hours vary according to season (see here for details) but is mostly open every day, and costs only 2 euros to get in. You're let in on a rotating basis because guards need to accompany you through the buliding.

Carmignano

The main reason to come to Carmignano (in my opinion) is to see the famous Visitation by Pontormo. The work, commissioned by the Pinadori family, is located in the church of S. Michele a Carmignano, which is open normal church hours, and vigilated by a rather strict caretaker lady.

Pontormo is a Mannerist aritst - the period that comes at the end of the Renaissance, after Michelangelo has left his mark. This painting represents the reunion of the pregnant Mary and Elizabeth. The oval form of the group tightly unites the figures. The unnatural colours and voluminous robes typical of this style contribute to an unprecedented emotional charge.