Pordenone and nearby region

Arttrav loves Friuli!!! The people are super friendly, and there are not many tourists, especially in the off-season.

			Palazzo Communale, 13th c.

The artist Pordenone (Giovanni Antonio de Sacchis): works at the Duomo di san marco.
Perhaps the most famous resident of this city was the artist of the same name, who lived 1483-1539. Not well known to us today, not even to art historians, pordenone is a really interesting artist, whose strong provincial roots and eclectic, individual style helped him receive important commissions not only in this region but beyond. He absorbed influences from all of italy during his travels. His work is often illusionistic and powerful, and he sought out original solutions to old problems. To learn more aout this fascinating artist, you can read a short article interviewing the author of a recent monograph on Pordenone, or go to your local library or bookstore and ask for the huge tome that is his book (see amazon link above).

The altarpiece of St. Christopher in the Duomo is a typical work by Pordenone. St. Christopher, the patron saint of travellers who has recently been demoted by the Catholic church, is frequently found in the Friulian region. He was a giant who carried Christ on his shoulder in order to cross a river. Often he was painted on the exterior of country churches so that he could be seen from far by villagers. The problem with this giant, when it comes to painting, is that if you have to paint anyone else with him, it's pretty hard to make him look like a giant, and yet paint the other people big enough to be worth your weight in canvas. Pordenone has a genial solution to this: he submerges the lower legs of the giant in the river, and adds a romantic sway to the body that helps lead the viewer's eye inwards. Despite this modern solution, some aspects of this sixteenth century altarpiece are rather gothic. The Christ child is included twice -- there he is also in Joseph's arms. Furthermore, the Madonna della Misericordia format, where mary protects miniature donors in her cloak, had been abandoned in central italy for at least half a century. The facial types found in this work are typical of the region. As such, this work is exemplary of pordenone's early work -- modern yet in some ways "backward", worldly and also provincial.

St Roch, an early fresco by Pordenone on a pillar	Altarpiece of St. Christopher in the right aisle but designed to be in the first chapel on the left.	Baptismal font panels (originals in the museum)	A typical four-part friulian chapel ceiling by a follower of Pordenone, Pomponeo Amalteo.

The town of San Vito al Tagliamento
The Tagliamento is the river that divides this region east to west. Hence it seemed appropriate to stop in the sleepy town of San Vito al Tagliamento, at this important crossroads. Disappointingly, the river does not run anywhere near the historic centre of this town. The main square boasts an elegant belltower by our renaissance man, Pordenone himself. The clock tower stands independantly of the Duomo, which is decorated by frescoes by followers of Pordenone, including Pomponeo Amalteo, after whom a street here is named.

Where to stay
Hotel Ciasa de Gahja, Budoia (PN)
This hotel located some 15km from the city of Pordenone, near the air base of Aviano, is an excellent starting point from which to explore the region. It's a restored hunting lodge with quirky rooms, each one different from the other. Some are huge, some have antiques... There is a pool in the courtyard, perfect for a summer dip. They have a fancy restaurant, but i'd skip it in favour of the place listed below. Breakfast was good and plentiful. You can even order an omlette.

The entrance	Window in my room	view from the window on a sleepy winter's morning

Where to eat
Osteria il Favri, San Giorgio della Richinvelda (Rauscedo, PN)
Via Borgo Meduna, 12 / tel 0427 94043
Closed Sunday and Wednesday
If you can find it, you can eat there (call for directions). This slowfood locale served one of the best meals I've ever had. It helped to be starving, having gotten very lost trying to find this very small town, with this little restaurant in the middle of nowhere. Some of the roads were unpaved. But boy, was it worth it. In fact i'm thinking i'll go back to this region just to eat here. 84 euros fed four hungry adults, and the boys had steak. The menu included friulian specialties of various sorts. All the primi were vegetarian. We had some excellent ravioli with a poppy seed butter sauce. The spinach crespelle were also very good. Salad was served with real aged balsamic vinegar and specialty oils; steak was served rare. The restaurant is also known for its excellent wine cellar. Now i'm hungry just writing about it.