Art, Travel & Life in Italy & Europe

An Autumn dinner on a farm in Tuscany

To celebrate my parents’ visit from Canada this October, I arranged for a family dinner on a farm in Tuscany, near Radicondoli. Think baby animals, autumn’s bounty and fresh cheese… all carved up and on our table!

zucca

harvested zucca of all types

We asked our friends at the enogastronomic society De Gustibus to put us in touch with Giovanna and Giovanni at Podere Paugnano near Radicondoli in the Senese. We’d been there once for a fantastic dinner event with De Gustibus and wanted a repeat! Paugnano is an agriturismo and although there is no formal restaurant here, guests of the agriturismo and the public can book ahead for a dinner.

radicondoli

Evening view towards Radicondoli

We arrived around sunset as I knew we wanted enough light to see some the animals on the grounds before settling in for our feast. In late October there are lots of baby animals around, and by mid November the place will be full of them. We started with the sheep, which the family uses for pecorino made on the premises. The first baby sheep of the season have been born, and are so cute and fluffy at 2-10 days old. By next month, we learn that there will be 90 babies in this enclosure. Needless to say, by next Easter there will be fewer…

baby sheep

The first of the sheep litter – some are 2 days old!

baby sheep

Baby sheep!

We also visit the 3 month-old piglets who squeal and snort around their huge mamma pigs, but it’s too dark to get a reasonable photo of them.

Next stop, the cheese lab, where Pino shows us the storage fridges for fresh and more seasoned pecorino. There is a cheese shop on the farm that you can visit at any time to purchase cheese directly.

marzolino

An unusual shape of marzolino cheese

cheese

Cheese in the fresh storage area – the less seasoned molds stay here

cheese

Cheese

Speaking of cheese it’s time for the aperitivo to start, out on the balcony, with a sampling of many of the cheeses we just saw maturing. Giovanna has made delicious mostarde, jams and honey to serve with the cheese.

cheese

Cheese plate

We try to contain ourselves knowing what’s to come, and enjoy the display of freshly harvested zucca (pumpkin and squash) by comparing the size of the vegetable to our heads.

pumpkins

My parents and the pumpkins bigger then their heads!

Inside, Giovanna and the other ladies of the house are preparing ravioli.

ravioli

Giovanna adding the cheese mixture to the long rolled out pasta for ravioli

ravioli

ravioli ready for the pot

Talk about fresh! Rather than the more common ricotta and spinach filling we are having potato and pecorino filled ravioli with a tomato sauce. They have kindly respected my food allergies so there’s no garlic in anything, and it’s all vegetarian except for the roast baby pig…

potatoes

Delicious roast potatoes with sage and rosemary

pumpkin

Roast pumpkin (zucca)

The secondi are abundant and so very yummy. There’s roast slices of zucca (pumpkin, but not like the American kind, more like an orange squash), amazing oven-roasted potatoes with sage and rosemary (we had to ask for seconds of these!), a torta salata di bietole for us vegetarians… and the much awaited roast piglet.

roast piglet

One committed piglet

Just as we figured no more could enter our stomachs, out comes a bowl of seasonal fruit – pears, cachi and grapes – and the final touch, seadas. These are fried pockets of cheese topped with lemon rind and sugar, a Sardinian specialty.

seadas

seadas

The newborn kittens hung out close by to enjoy a little extra meat and cheese, receiving much attention as they were just too cute to resist.

cats

Kittens! and cats

kitten

Curious kitten

Everything we ate was organic, and almost all was produced right there on the farm. We were an hour and ten minutes away from Florence but a whole world apart from the city, where you can be a special guest in a warm, private home, eating home-made, relatively traditional food. If the dark road’s too much for you at night, accommodation can be arranged in their agriturismo.

Update: we were back for a summer dinner with De Gustibus in June 2014. Same fabulous hospitality, similar menu, better light and lots of kittens!

 

INFO

Podere Paugnano
33 Radicondoli Siena – Tel. +39 0577 793027

 

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By: arttrav

Alexandra Korey aka ArtTrav is a Florence-based art historian and arts marketing consultant.

  • Georgette Jupe

    ok yes I totally wish I was there instead of babysitting but can I pursuade you to go back again with us! this place looks amazing and the baby animals!!!!!!!!!!!!! sigh

  • http://twitter.com/thismyhappiness Jenna Francisco

    What a great way to give your parents a taste of Tuscany. I would love to experience an evening like this. Everything looks delicious, especially the ravioli. I would have passed on the piglet, but the fact that the animals are raised there in such a nice environment is important. If you are vegetarian, can you request a completely vegetarian meal at a place like this?

  • http://twitter.com/piubelladitutte lapiubelladitutte

    Where is this gorgius place where one can eat real food surround by kitties?????

  • http://www.arttrav.com arttrav

    Hi Jenna
    Isn’t it amazing? The piglet roasted was suspiciously the same size as the ones i saw in the pen… As I was ordering dinner for 14 people I asked for the meat, but certainly you can always order just vegetarian meals in Italy and it is not frowned upon. Actually there are so many options for us vegetarians!!
    AMK

  • http://www.arttrav.com arttrav

    It is Podere Paugnano, the address is at the bottom of the post :)

  • http://www.facebook.com/aryanja Arianna Mimosa

    Awesome pictures and great post! I am getting hungry and remembering the beauty of Tuscany every time I go there!

  • http://twitter.com/thismyhappiness Jenna Francisco

    The same size as the ones you saw in the pen…? Hmm. But good to know that ordering vegetarian meals is not frowned upon. I hate it when you feel like you have to explain yourself in that situation.

  • http://twitter.com/PerfectItalyWed Bonnie Marie

    True Italian lifestyle, I bet your family had a great time!

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