{"id":11996,"date":"2016-05-07T11:02:23","date_gmt":"2016-05-07T09:02:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.arttrav.com\/?p=11996"},"modified":"2016-05-07T11:02:23","modified_gmt":"2016-05-07T09:02:23","slug":"san-vincenzo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.arttrav.com\/tuscany\/san-vincenzo\/","title":{"rendered":"San Vincenzo: plenty of small fish in the sea"},"content":{"rendered":"

If you look at the town of San Vincenzo<\/strong> on the coast of Tuscany on a warm summer\u2019s day, the trendy shops and tanned patrons speak of the affluence of a town blessed by nature that has done a good job of taking care of itself and of attracting tourism. It\u2019s hard to imagine that less than a hundred years ago, the place was dirt poor<\/strong>. It was a fishing town<\/strong> that didn\u2019t even make much of its own fish. But things changed, between the wars, and San Vincenzo had a moment of fame based on small \u201coily\u201d fish. Betting mostly on tourism through the second half of the 20th<\/sup> century, fish is making a comeback<\/strong> once more in San Vincenzo, setting the town apart from those that dot the Etruscan Coast as a gastronomic destination, not just for its annual Palamita festival<\/strong>, but year-round.<\/p>\n

\"San
San Vincenzo seen from the “Passeggiata del Marinaio”<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

<\/p>\n

On a recent weekend in San Vincenzo for its main food event, Un Mare di Gusto: Palamita and Friends<\/a> (held the first weekend of May each year), I had a chance to not only sample palamita (bonito in English), but to dip a little deeper into the role of fishing in this town.<\/p>\n

\"Fisherman
Fishermen, historic photo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Palamita is categorized as a \u201cpesce azzurro\u201d, which in English is not \u201cblue fish\u201d but the less appealing \u201coily fish\u201d, and it\u2019s in the tunnidi<\/em> family that also includes sardines, anchovies and sgombro. I automatically assumed it was small, but actually it\u2019s closer to a tuna, though it doesn\u2019t grow that large, only up to 2-3 kilos. I also assumed it was mainly served fried, but wrong again \u2013 the San Vincentini seem to serve it up every which way!<\/p>\n

\"Palamita
Palamita at the local Coop<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Palamita (a much nicer word than bonito) is a really healthy fish, full of Omega 3s, Vitamin E and B, and it has the full complement of eight amino acids. It\u2019s fished sustainably, with no worry of running low on stock: it\u2019s line fished, often without bait, with a method not surprisingly called \u201cpalamito\u201d. It\u2019s the kind of fish you ought to be eating every week. But if you\u2019ve never heard of it, don\u2019t be surprised. It\u2019s not often found on menus beyond San Vincenzo, although the local Coop Tirreno is working on making it available a little further inland.<\/p>\n

Palamita is this town\u2019s official fish<\/strong>, a \u201cpesce povero\u201d or poor-man\u2019s food, adopted, dressed up and made popular by decision of the local council back in 2000. But if the town has decided to promote oily fish, it\u2019s not just a modern invention, it\u2019s something that links to its past and helps promote its heritage.<\/p>\n

\"Historic
Historic fishermen<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Maurizio dell\u2019Agnello<\/strong> is a journalist and editor of the magazine Il Pesce, dedicated \u2013 you got it \u2013 to fish and fishing. He and Rodolfo Tagliaferri, who heads up the local photography club, have been doing some interesting research on the one moment in history in which San Vincenzo had a booming fishing industry. You\u2019d think that a fishing town would have always had such a thing, but no: the minerals always present down this coast attracted industry, and many worked at factories. Although fishing was practiced on a large scale in this gulf of the Mediterranean since Etruscan times \u2013 leaving tangible evidence in a mosaic you can see at Populonia that shows many kinds of fish \u2013 heading into the 19th<\/sup> and 20th<\/sup> century, local fishermen tended to use inland pools. It took an outside influence, that of the Genovese who came down from the north, to teach them to get out on ships in their own sea and take fish in large numbers. From May to October, these seas yield a lot of sardines and anchovies. When locals started using these techniques in the 1920s, they started bringing in so many that they could barely sell them off.<\/p>\n

\"The
The Federici brothers<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

One of the fishing families in this period, the Federici, included six lovely brothers (see photo) who brought in so much fish, they became one of the main suppliers for an industry begun by the town\u2019s patron, Count Gaddo della Gherardesca, who applied a method of preservation learned from others abroad. From 1925 to 1929, this company made preserved sardines and anchovies in tins, with the oddity that they were first fried, then preserved under oil! This took place in Donoratico (5km away and then called Bambola) in a building that came to be nicknamed the Friggera. When they moved the business to a larger location in San Vincenzo, it had a much fancier name but everyone still called it the Friggera, even when they stopped frying the fish and just preserved it in oil. Under the much appreciated label of \u201cDantes\u201d sardines \u2013 a play on the name of a competitor from the French Riviera named Nantes \u2013 these little fish were popular everywhere in Italy, and in particular, they fed the army.<\/p>\n

The major supply sent to the army was probably the reason the factory was bombed by the Allies during the war, putting an end to almost two decades of fish-inspired prosperity in the town. Workers turned to businesses like Rosignano Solvay which made sodium carbonate, the Count turned to boat-building, and in the post-war boom, San Vincenzo became a popular beach destination and summer colony location. The building that was the Friggera was rebuilt and used as a childrens\u2019 summer camp, and it is now a hotel.<\/p>\n

\"Postcard
Postcard of San Vincenzo in the 1950s<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Unquestionably a beautiful town for summer tourism, San Vincenzo has invested a lot to make sure it remains an attraction. It recently built a harbour (with plenty of super-yachts parked there) protected by a breaker that forms a pleasant path along which to walk, the Passeggiata del Marinaio<\/em>. The path ends with a large bronze statue by local artist Giampaolo Talani, whose windswept gaze faces the libeccio<\/em> wind, the south-west wind that is the toughest of them all, that sweeps away anything in its past. The artist told me that if you dare go out on that path during this wind (and don\u2019t mind getting wet), it\u2019s one of the most beautiful things in the world (but also dangerous \u2013 we\u2019re not recommending it).<\/p>\n

\"The
The Marinaio by Talani<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Other marine-themed art is planned for the city \u2013 at the recent festival they announced the winning project for some mosaics for the passeggiata<\/em>. During the year, they make a major effort to promote local exhibits and involve the town\u2019s active residents.<\/p>\n

\"Winning
Winning project for a mosaic<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As for the fish festival<\/a>, it\u2019s a cute formula, with local restaurants participating by offering tasting points that dot the sea front and the town\u2019s main drag. A \u20ac7 pass (and \u20ac3 wine pass) gets you seven tastings, which take place on the Sunday from the late afternoon onwards. Special dishes are available for other meals on that weekend, and in general there are lots of good options for fish lovers in town at all times.<\/p>\n

\"Tastings
Tastings at the Palamita Festival<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I plan on returning to San Vincenzo when the weather is right for swimming, since we discovered a charming family run hotel, Lo Scoglietto<\/a>. We spent ages chatting with the owner, Mirko, whose family bought the property back in 1971 and who practically grew up with return-customers over the years. Our room faced right on to the beach, and the sound of the waves lulled us to sleep.<\/p>\n

\"Hotel
Hotel Lo Scoglietto<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

With thanks<\/strong> to Chiara Brandi and Carlotta Ghelardi for the invitation to the Mare di Gusto event. For the historic photos thanks to Rodolfo Tagliaferri. Information on fishing from Rivista Il Pesce<\/em> 03\/2009 and 04\/2013 provided to me by the author Maurizio Dell\u2019Agnello.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

If you look at the town of San Vincenzo on the coast of Tuscany on a warm summer\u2019s day, the […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":12005,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[25],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"\nSan Vincenzo: plenty of small fish in the sea - ArtTrav<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Fish is making a comebackin San Vincenzo, setting the town apart from those that dot the Etruscan Coast as a gastronomic destination.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.arttrav.com\/tuscany\/san-vincenzo\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"San Vincenzo: plenty of small fish in the sea - 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