{"id":4461,"date":"2011-12-21T13:15:16","date_gmt":"2011-12-21T11:15:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.arttrav.com\/?p=4461"},"modified":"2015-12-11T08:51:21","modified_gmt":"2015-12-11T07:51:21","slug":"italian-christmas-menus-from-north-to-south","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.arttrav.com\/expat-life\/italian-christmas-menus-from-north-to-south\/","title":{"rendered":"Italian Christmas menus from North to South"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-4472\" title=\"tree\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/tree.jpg?resize=199%2C300&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"199\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/tree.jpg?resize=199%2C300&amp;ssl=1 199w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/tree.jpg?resize=332%2C500&amp;ssl=1 332w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/tree.jpg?w=1000&amp;ssl=1 1000w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 199px) 100vw, 199px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/>These days talk revolves around food (even more than usual) as everyone is planning their <strong>menu<\/strong> for the vigiglia di Natale (<strong>Christmas Eve<\/strong>). While a normal meal, especially in the South, is often object of discussion at 8am, holiday meals are decided weeks in advance, with some negotiation between family members. Not surprisingly, <strong>what\u2019s eaten on December 24 differs vastly between Italian regions<\/strong>, and most families stick to their own traditions even if they have moved to another part of the country.<\/p>\n<p>I asked friends from Milan down to Sicily to send their me Christmas menus so we can vicariously eat our way down the boot.<!--more--><\/p>\n<h2><strong>Emilia-Romagna \/ Lombardy: Patrizia and the Nave-Cerutti family<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>I asked Patrizia, an old family friend from Milan, what their family prepares for Christmas. They now live in the small town of Somaglia in Lodi province on the Emilia-Romagna border so this menu might be \u201ccontaminated\u201d. In the north, the 24<sup>th<\/sup> is generally not celebrated, so this is in truth a Christmas lunch menu for the 25<sup>th<\/sup>.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_4465\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-4465\" style=\"width: 453px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"http:\/\/essenzaincucina.blogspot.com\/2011\/07\/casoncelli-alla-bergamasca.html\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-4465 size-full\" title=\"casoncelli\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/casoncelli.jpg?resize=453%2C640&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"453\" height=\"640\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/casoncelli.jpg?w=453&amp;ssl=1 453w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/casoncelli.jpg?resize=212%2C300&amp;ssl=1 212w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/casoncelli.jpg?resize=353%2C500&amp;ssl=1 353w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 453px) 100vw, 453px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-4465\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Casoncelli &#8211; photo Essenza in Cucina<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Antipasti<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Tartine decorate \u2013 white sandwich bread with various toppings, including\u00a0 butter and anchovy paste, artichoke paste, prosciutto, salami, etc.<\/li>\n<li>Pollo in gelatina \u2013 Chicken salad in a gelatin form<\/li>\n<li>Mixed cured meats<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Primi<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Casoncelli \u2013 a type of half-moon shaped ravioli from Bergamo filled with meat, grana padano and herbs, topped with grated grana padano, butter, bacon and sage (Here&#8217;s a beautiful<a href=\"http:\/\/essenzaincucina.blogspot.com\/2011\/07\/casoncelli-alla-bergamasca.html\" target=\"_blank\"> recipe from Essenza in Cucina<\/a>, whose photo is above).<\/li>\n<li>Pasta with wanut sauce<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Secondo<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Faraona arrosto \u2013 roast pheasant<\/li>\n<li>Cima ripiena alla genovese \u2013 a Ligurian veal and vegetable stuffed meat loaf; the Milanese variant is fried<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Dolce<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Panettone<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<figure id=\"attachment_4464\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-4464\" style=\"width: 550px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-4464\" title=\"cima\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/cima.jpg?resize=550%2C366&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"550\" height=\"366\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/cima.jpg?w=478&amp;ssl=1 478w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/cima.jpg?resize=300%2C199&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 550px) 100vw, 550px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-4464\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cima ripiena &#8211; photo Donna Moderna<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<h2><strong>Lucca, Tuscany: Laura, Fabio and the Rossi family<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>I asked my friend Laura De Benedetto, of southern origin, to poll her mother in law for what their family will be having in <a href=\"https:\/\/www.arttrav.com\/churches\/lucca\/\" target=\"_blank\">Lucca<\/a>, since I was interested in a Tuscan representative outside of Florence. Here is their response.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_4462\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-4462\" style=\"width: 700px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-4462\" title=\"tordelli\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/tordelli.jpg?resize=700%2C525&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"525\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/tordelli.jpg?resize=580%2C435&amp;ssl=1 580w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/tordelli.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/tordelli.jpg?w=1600&amp;ssl=1 1600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 700px) 100vw, 700px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-4462\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tordelli &#8211; Photo Barattini, see link below<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Antipasto<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Mixed crostini with liver pate, sliced cured metas<\/li>\n<li>Polenta with porchini mushrooms<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Primo<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Tordelli Lucchesi al rag\u00f9 di carne \u2013 a meat-filled pasta typical of this region, with a meat and tomato sauce (see a <a href=\"http:\/\/aureliobarattini.blogspot.com\/2010\/06\/tordelli-lucchesi.html\">recipe by Aurelio Barattini<\/a>)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Secondo<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Mixed boiled meats is the traditional dish, served with various sauces<\/li>\n<li>Boiled or mashed potatoes on the side<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Dolce<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Fresh and dried Fruit<\/li>\n<li>Panettone<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2><strong>Acquapendente, Lazio: the Cammilli family<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>On the border between Lazio and Tuscany, I wanted to see if my sister in law Laura Cammilli\u2019s family meal was very different from Laura De Benedetto\u2019s husband\u2019s family dinner in Lucca. Her Mom, Silvia, says their own menu has been personalized so much over the years that she\u2019s asked a friend for a more typical menu of their town.<\/p>\n<p>The meal does not start with apetizers because the townspeople believe that this is just a waste of precious time that ought to be dedicated to the proper meal! So we go straight to the primi\u2026<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_4466\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-4466\" style=\"width: 640px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.spadelliamoinsieme.com\/2010\/11\/pasta-e-ceci-con-patate.html\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-4466 size-full\" title=\"pasta-e-ceci\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/pasta-e-ceci.jpg?resize=640%2C427&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"640\" height=\"427\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/pasta-e-ceci.jpg?w=640&amp;ssl=1 640w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/pasta-e-ceci.jpg?resize=300%2C200&amp;ssl=1 300w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/pasta-e-ceci.jpg?resize=580%2C386&amp;ssl=1 580w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-4466\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Pasta e ceci &#8211; photo Spadelliamo Insieme?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Primi<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Spaghetti al tonno &#8211; spaghetti with tuna<\/li>\n<li>Pasta e ceci \u2013 pasta and chick peas (See Recipe from <a href=\"http:\/\/www.spadelliamoinsieme.com\/2010\/11\/pasta-e-ceci-con-patate.html\" target=\"_blank\">Spadelliamo Insieme<\/a>)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Secondi<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Baccala&#8217; fritto \u2013 fried baccala (salt fish)<\/li>\n<li>carciofi e cavolfiore fritto \u2013 fried artichokes and cauliflower<\/li>\n<li>Roast eel<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Dolci<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Tozzetti \u2013 dried biscuits similar to \u201cbiscotti\u201d (cantucci di prato)<\/li>\n<li>Ubriachelli \u2013 another dried biscuit, served with wine<\/li>\n<li>Maccheroni dolci \u2013 sweet pasta with honey and wanuts<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2><strong>Taranto, Puglia: the Olivieri family (my in-laws)<br \/>\n<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>For Christmas Eve, one traditionally has fish, while meat is served on Christmas day. Taranto is the \u201ccity of two seas\u201d and they say if you don\u2019t eat cozze (mussels) you\u2019re not Tarantino; fish in general abounds in their cooking. Although my in-laws\u2019 family moved to Florence in the early 70s, there are traditional Pugliese elements in their menu, and certainly the extent of the hospitality, variety, and amount of food served is 100% southern Italian. Some parts of the menu have been altered to our personal tastes and to my particular, vegetarian diet. The photos below are actual fish cooked by my father in law and shot hastily with an iphone before being eaten.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_4467\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-4467\" style=\"width: 550px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-4467\" title=\"spaghetti-vongole\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/spaghetti-vongole.jpg?resize=550%2C515&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"550\" height=\"515\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/spaghetti-vongole.jpg?w=507&amp;ssl=1 507w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/spaghetti-vongole.jpg?resize=300%2C281&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 550px) 100vw, 550px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-4467\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Spaghetti alle vongole (not cozze, i have no idea what the difference is) &#8211; photo Vincenzo Olivieri&#8217;s facebook page<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_4468\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-4468\" style=\"width: 506px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-4468 size-full\" title=\"baked-fish\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/baked-fish.jpg?resize=506%2C533&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"506\" height=\"533\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/baked-fish.jpg?w=506&amp;ssl=1 506w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/baked-fish.jpg?resize=284%2C300&amp;ssl=1 284w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/baked-fish.jpg?resize=474%2C500&amp;ssl=1 474w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 506px) 100vw, 506px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-4468\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A big baked fish &#8211; photo Vincenzo Olivieri&#8217;s facebook page<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Antipasto<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Mix di frutti di mare crudi (noci, ostriche e cozze) e al gratin (cozze e ostriche) \u2013 mix of raw and baked <em>au gratin<\/em> seafood<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Primo<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Spaghetti con le cozze \u2013 Spaghetti with mussels (as Tommaso and I don&#8217;t eat this, there is usually a second primo, such as ravioli or spaghetti with vegetable sauce, for us)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Secondo<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Branzino, dentice o orata al forno \u2013 baked white fish<\/li>\n<li>Roasted zucchini and eggplant<\/li>\n<li>Insalata Russa which is called Salad Olivier in English (potatoes, mayo, egg and other ingredients)<\/li>\n<li>Green salad (I think this was added just for me)<\/li>\n<li>Cheeses: mozzarella, caciocavallo and ricotta<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Dessert<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Frutta mista fresca e secca \u2013 display of fresh and dried fruit, including pineapple<\/li>\n<li>Panettone, cartellate, sannacchiudere<\/li>\n<li>Spumante, nocino digestivo<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Meal duration: 3-4 hours<\/p>\n<p>Bonus: The central elements of the Christmas Day Menu planned by my in-laws are Lasagna with meatballs, prosciutto cotto and provola cheese; Agnello al forno con patate (roast lamb with potatoes); spinach, fried artichokes. Plus all the various antipasti, fruits and desserts.<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Taormina, Sicily: Francesca and her mom Silvana<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>I expected differences between North and South, but not such great difference between Puglia and Sicily. But Sicily is a very special island region with its own cuisine, and the menu that Francesca has sent me is very different indeed. I think they might actually eat more than my Pugliese family.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_4469\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-4469\" style=\"width: 427px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/spersper\/6245576322\/\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-4469 size-full\" title=\"cassata\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/cassata.jpg?resize=427%2C640&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"427\" height=\"640\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/cassata.jpg?w=427&amp;ssl=1 427w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/cassata.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.arttrav.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/12\/cassata.jpg?resize=333%2C500&amp;ssl=1 333w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 427px) 100vw, 427px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-4469\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Cassata &#8211; photo flickr @spersper<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Antipasto<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Ricotta a forno \u2013 Baked ricotta<\/li>\n<li>Melanzane arrosto \u2013 Roasted eggplants<\/li>\n<li>Caponata \u2013 roasted peppers in oil<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Primi<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Maccheroni alla norma \u2013 a kind of home made pasta with eggplant and tomato sauce<\/li>\n<li>Pasta con finocchietto selvatico (wild fennel pasta)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Secondi<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Falsomagro \u2013 a giant meat loaf that I\u2019m told takes days to digest (it&#8217;s name means &#8220;fake thin&#8221;)<\/li>\n<li>Involtini alla siciliana (bracioline)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Dolci<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Semifreddo alle mandorle \u2013 almond mousse<\/li>\n<li>Cassata \u2013 traditionally a Christmas dessert, it\u2019s now eaten year round<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Francesca leaves us with a sicilian saying:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>&#8220;Panza cuntenti, cori clementi; panza dijuna, nenti pirduna.\u201d<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>In Italian that\u2019s <em>pancia contenta, cuore clemente; pancia digiuna, niente perdona<\/em>; or in English, Happy stomach, lenient heart, empty stomach, no mercy.<\/p>\n<p>So fill your stomach til it can take no more\u2026 and know that on the 25<sup>th<\/sup>, and again on the 26<sup>th<\/sup>, you\u2019re going to be doing it all over again. Merciless families like mine will stuff you also on Dec 31, Jan 1 and Jan 6, so ready that gym membership and let out your waistbands \u2013 temporarily.<\/p>\n<p>I feel so lucky to have such wonderful friends and family&#8230; who are all really good cooks! A big <em>abbraccio<\/em> and much love to Patrizia, Laura DB, Laura C, Enzo and Francesca for participating in this little &#8220;project&#8221; by sending menus. Buon appetito.<\/p>\n<p><em>Merry Christmas to all, from my table (or my in-laws\u2019 table) to yours!<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>NOTE: I&#8217;ve chosen to link recipes in Italian because it&#8217;s difficult to find these authentic regional dishes on English websites. I&#8217;ve aimed for the most attractive photos, understanding that these might not be the most traditional interpretations.<br \/>\n<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>These days talk revolves around food (even more than usual) as everyone is planning their menu for the vigiglia di [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":4466,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[818],"tags":[586,53],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v22.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Italian Christmas menus from North to South - ArtTrav<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Not surprisingly, what\u2019s eaten on December 24 differs vastly between Italian regions, and most families stick to their own traditions.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.arttrav.com\/expat-life\/italian-christmas-menus-from-north-to-south\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Italian Christmas menus from North to South - 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